Combination garment and brassiere



' Oct. 7, I952 H. ROBINS COMBINATION GARMENT AND BRASSIERE 4 Sheets-Shet 1 7 Filed NOV. 24', 1950 FIG. I0.

HYMAN ROBINS mwkm mawkmq ATTORNEYS Oct. 7, 1952 H. ROBINS COMBINATION GARMENT AND BRASSIERE 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed NOV. 24, 1950 HYMAN ROB/IVS ATTORNEYS Oct. 7, 1952 H. ROBINS v 2,612,642

COMBINATION GARMENT AND BRASSIERE Filed Nov. 24, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Oct. 7, 1952 ROBl s 2,612,642

COMBINATION GARMENT AND BRASSIERE File i Nov. 24, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 I N VENTOR H YMAN ROB/NS ATTORNEYS Patented Oct. 7, 1952 UNITED STATES PATENT -OFFICE a p 2',t12,642, f commands GARMENTAilD fimi'ssiititit 2 Hvman Robins, Brooklyn, N. Y. 'fiaiip l'i catioirfioi eniber 24, mtmsenti no; 1923132.

claims. (01.2 42) The present invention relates to improvements in combination garment iaiidbrassiei and has for an object to provide abu'ilt-in eonceal'edbr'as siere for such garmentsas bath "suits; dresses, playwear and "other ready-to waritem's wherever applicable.

Another object of the invention is'to provide; in a combination garment, a-novel form f bras's'ire which, in structure and tune: on-fis' designe'd to perfect the figure and to gwtheweatetedmtdrt, support and proper uplift.- I

A further object of the invention; is t'oprovi'de an improved combinationgai'iiint in-whie'h bones or other stays are iricorporated'in the bra's'sier'e section to retain the ciip -shapfo'r ontourf arid at the same time to produce a gar'rn I t'vv'hich tfthe brassiere section is not bulky and'is praotical for all sizes,

A still further object of the invntioh i's to pro vide an improved combination garment and bras siere in which such garment is pe'r'settea tor strapless wear in that'the stay construction under the tension produced bvap'plication offthe garment to the bust will prevent sagging' o'f the upper portion of the gar'm'ent.= U

With the foregoin 'andgothenohj'ectsin view,

the invention will be more fullv described inafter, and will be more particularly pointed out in the claims appended hereto.

In the drawings, wherein the'symbols' refer to like or corresponding parts throughout t-he seW' eral views, l

Figure 1 is a perspective view' df "the-"improved combination garment and bfass'iereinthe p'bsi-' tion of use. 1 I Figure 2 isa similar viewsona larger scal'eywith upper portions of the outer garment removed and showing the lining arranged to constitutethe" brassiere shown as actually applied in use.

Figure 3 is a rear'elevational' View showing the combination garment open'ed down theback showing in interior elevation" the midriff section and the brassiere sections of the lining-with the end and side portions of the iela'stic tap'e free of the sides of the'ga'rments andemerging" f rom the side seams. t r

Figure 4 is an enlarged fragmentary interior elevational view of the and brassiere showing a" bone section partlybroken away with thegatheri'ng of 'the nning-ex ag'gerated along the lower incident to the contraction oi the elastic tape;

Figure 5 is a fragme' tary nlargea-secti the lining of the garment arranged-"t""fo brassiere and. with parts and of the vlnaa're'r v :m with the ei'as'ti tape in'tl ie contracted posiion.

u e 5 s I f la c m a a Vi w Showin the tapeand lower portion of one of the cups expanded about the bust. V Figure '7 is a horizontal sectional View taken'on a' ma r sc e 9n the e. 1,- 1n-,F u 'san s 'wi e .i ntra dro qi f the" el c tape with one of the cup s shown in an initial position of application to the bust. r 8 is s m a 'qmna i. o i 1.11% the a qat n .Q' he "br s :a a, a en ate ia tr thedto ei th u t. wh n t E as ic; ta i lra ix wi dwfi ei th back oi the'bod this' Figures being taken on 'l ns 4-5 in ure 1 a .t F re Qi s. eyt i' le 's cti nal'r w w th bar-- was o the g esfiand ii in's b k and shew s'tb a i a on i 1 sv r s r and a -r ment'to the bust inthe 'stretched'condition of the a tit fiei d .1 a n,

i l T-,, 9 .1 Si$t ma r al. l v b a i r i a s. .1 en awa dp ws i n at d lines. and with th le'n s or e as detached and with the tapeinth contractd t i=;; 1 t .t i

-Refe'r'ring more particularly to the 'd'r'awir'i'gs whichillustrate' only a single embodiment of which-the:invntionissusceptible;-suehinvention is'illu'strated-in connection-wish a bathin "suit of whi'ch 'l 5" designates g'enerally the lower section whi may be a parity or'skirt' section an may be for ined of 'innerand outer parts. The garment alsoc'oinpris'e's' a midriff' section IB and an u per or bust section l1. "Ifhe side and back sections are indicatedfgenerally at la a ql9, such sectmn'smeetin in the back ar a having a zipper or 'othersuitablje fastenings 20'; a snown m t igure 3, to secure th'eg'a'rment about; the person- The garm nt s t itsvariant-seasons will e mane with guitar garment or dress'mat'e'ri'al and withfaninnr lining; p a

By re eren s ti r g-fire 7 ,;18 ai'1d; 91 atar-- garment material is dfesignated at" 21 and the: inner 'linin'g materialat 22". mei t with' the eiiception' of the bust section the lining my beer usual lighter lin'ii'ig 'niate'r'iai" I may 5y; have stretch'in t orbothdirecti'onjs: iff -de'siredibut' 'iin thefbrassiers'ection of the gar}; meiittn rmng 2' 2is preferably of the same mater i'et1 as' tlj pater Wall Of dress matfial il .and' preferably; althoughnot' 'ziee'essarilyir the" bras siere lining 22 is non-stretchable in either direction.

Moreover the outer wall 2| of dress material is preferably unconnected to the lining throughout the entire area of the various sections of the garment except that outer dress wall 2| and linin 22 are connected along the upper edge of the garment including the brassiere section and the side panels I8, l9 and such outer dress wall 2| and lining 22 are also connected together along the open back of the garment as at the zipper opening 20. In other words the lining 22 throughout at entirely free from the outer wall of dress material 2| except at the edge portions thereof, Consequently the brassire section of the garment including both outer wall 2| and inner wall 22 may accommodate itself to the bust in an action in which the two walls 2| and 22 adjust themselves freely of one another tothe contour lines of the bust which makes for smoothness in conformation and avoids bulkiness. The method of securing the walls 2| and 22 together at the edges is preferably by stitching as indicated in the drawings.

The sides of the garment may be provided with stays or bones 23. The lining or internal wall 22 of the brassiere section is formed with cups 24 and 25 in the cups are produced vertical and horizontal darts 2B and 21.

The brassire as such is constituted of the lining portion'22'only and the outer dress wall 2!. is merely made in this section of sufficient fullness or looseness so as to shape itself snugly over the cups of the internal brassiere section 22 as the garment is applied to the figure of the wearer.

At the opposite side portions of each cup are provided bones or stays 28 and 29 erected substantially vertically, such bones or stays being contained in casings 39, as clearly appears in Figure 10. These stays are of bone, steel or other material possessing inherent elasticity, the same being wider than they are thick so as to be bendable flatwise within their elastic limits but being strongly resistant to bending edgewise and having a substantial edgewise rigidity. These stays 28 and 29 have their upper ends extending substantially all the Way to the upper edge of the garment which is the upper edge of the brassiere section and continuing all the way down substantially vertically to a point just short of the midrif! section l6. An elastic tape 3| is sewed or otherwise afiixed only to the inner lining wall 22 at the lower portion of the brassire section and between the brassiere section and the midrifi section. Hi. This tapebeing entirely free of the outer garment wall 2| as appears to best advantage in Figure 9. Preferably the lower ends of the stays 28 and;29 terminate at or just above theupper edge of this elastic tape 3| which extends in a substantially horizontal line beneath the brassiere section so as to fit snugly beneath the bust in the act of applyingthe garment to the figure of the wearer. The staysZS and 29 are set in the cups with their edgewise dimensions. substantially 2| and 22 so that they may against the sides of the parallel with the walls be received fiatwise breasts. These stays 28 and 29 are slightly longer in vertical height than the vertical distance between the top edge of the brassire section'and the tape line 3| which arrangement imparts to the stays 28 and 29 an initial slight bend which least the midriif and brassiere sections l6 and I! of the combination garment is dicated in Figure 7 but adaptable as a matter of origin for application to the bust giving to the garment a bend or bias which preliminarily predisposes such garment to most readily fit the figure in the act of tightening and drawing the brassiere over the bust.

It will also be noted, particularly from Figures 5 and 10, that the lower ends of the stays 23 and 29 are set closer together than the upper ends of such stays and that the tape 3| is sewed to the lower edge of the brassiere section 22 while stretched and expanded so that when released the elastic band or tape 3| will contract thus draw- ;ing the lowerends of the stays closer together has a tendency to preform the brassiere section I into natural cups of a very shallow depth as jin and incidentally forming the gathers indicated at- 32 particularly in Figure 5. Thus the elastic tape 3| in the contracted position will draw the lower-"ends of the stays together and gather part 22 along its lower edge.

In Figure 3 the side seams are indicated at 33 and 34 and such side seams are formed by sewing the inner brassire wall 22 and the midriff lining walls Iii to the lining walls |8 and |9 of the side sections. The intermediate portion only of the tape is sewn or otherwise aifixed to the lower edge of the brassire section 22 and this intermediate portionof the elastic tape 3| extends from side seam 33 to side seam 34. At the side seams 33, 3d the ends 3| and 3| b of the elastic tape emerge inwardly of the side linings I8 and l9 and these tape ends 3| and 3| are not attached to any part-of the garment but are entirely free to be passed aroundto the back of the wearer. The tape ends may be tied at the back but preferably they will have some form of complemental fastening. ,A preferred form of fastening is an adjustable one. For example a hook 35 on one tape end may cooperate with a series of openings or eyelets 36 on the companion tape end so that the hook 35 may be selectively engaged with any particular eyelet in accordance with the girth dimensions of the wearer.

As shown in Figure 9 the elastic tape 3| may be stitched'by the same rows of stitching that are employed to attachedthe brassire inner wall 22 to the midriif liningsection or panel I3 As shown in Figure 9, als o the elastic tape 3| is preferably outward ofthe overlapping sectionsof the walls 22 and IE to avoid pulling the stitches and to draw both walls about the torso and to avoid bulkiness.

The material 22 of the brassire inner section,

which as stated before is preferably of a heavier than ordinary lining material, is preferably brought down from the brassire section in a central strip 31 of inextensible material which is sewed or otherwise 'afiixed to the midriif' lining panels H5. y

In the use of'thegarment, such garment is stepped into and pulled upwardly overthe body with the back section open as indicated in Figure 3; or in the case of a skirt the garment may he stepped into or pulled'over the head: The brassiere section will be originally in the'contracted condition shown more particularly in Figures 5 and 7 and as thus contracted it is applied against the bust. With the back of the garment still open as shown in Figure 3 the two tape ends 3| and 3| are then passed around to theb'ack of the body while at the same time stretching such tape. This stretching pressure will take effect from the side seam lines-33and 34and will'not affectthe side panels l9? and. I8 'Bythisaction the front brassire section 2| ,v 22 alone-will be stretched laterally .in a horizontaljdirectidn. This action walls will also cause the .intermediate portion of the tape 3!, at the front of-the garment to be drawn tight along a line just beneath thebust. The tape is then secured at the back as by engaging the hook 35 with-a selected eyelet 36 insuch wise thatthe brassiere section and the tape 31 mainin an extended taut condition.

AS: soon as the pressure of the expanding tape is communicated to theinner brassiere section 22. it will draw this section toward the'body causing the stays;28 and 29 to ride overthecurved side of the breasts and thus to turn gradually from positionqof Figure 7 to that shown in vliigure 8 in which from a flatwise standpoint the stays 28 and29 are turned angularly through quite a wide angle short of a right angle. Also these stays 28 and ,29 are caused toassume thecurvature of .the bust in a longitudinal or vertical direction. The greater this curvature the closer the bent stays approach the elastic limit and'consequently they become more rigid in a vertical upstanding sense and impart greater uplift and also sustain the upper line of the garment against sagging and'at a more permanent line so that the use of shoulder straps may be entirely'dispensed with, a fea-. ture which recommends the construction for incorporation in formal wear.

Incident to the expansion of'the tape 3| in the act of applying the garment to the bust-the lower ends of thestays 28 and 29 will be separated and the gathers 32 will'be stretchedioutinto a taut condition.

Figure shows .the. contracted position of the garment before it isapplied and Figure 6 shows the applied position of the garment in elevation in which the tape is shown as stretched, all the gathers removed and the stays 28 and 29 have been turned so that they are viewed partially edge! wise andare given a more pronouncedbowed appearance.

The upper edge of the garment is also preferably reinforced by a taping 38 to prevent the fab-.-. ric from stretching .and for holding the garment snugly to the body. Due to the fact that the lower ends of the stays 28 and 29 are adjacent or connected to the upper end of the elastic tape 3 I, the stretching of the tape not only stretches the gathers 32 at the lower portion of the brassiere but this stretching action is communicated through the stays to all parts of the cups between the stays and tends to stretch out any looseness or gathers-that may occur dueto the relaxed position of the garment for which compare Figures 5 andfi.

Referring more particularly to Figures 7 and 8, by comparative views the action of pulling and stretching the tape 3| isillustrated in which the cups are stretched tight acrossthe breasts with the bones or stays turning gradually as they slide inwardly along the curved surfaces of the breasts and assume the shape and conformation of the breasts which puts the same under elastic tension and imparts greater upstanding rigidity to such stays.

Due to the fact that the walls 2| and 22 are completely unconnected across the area of the brassiere section, the inner wall 22 which is the only wall directly connected to the elastic tape 3| is pulled inwardly and stretched over the bust so as to secure accurate conformation, while the outer loose wall 2| follows and adjusts itself in a natural manner to the same contour without creating any bulkiness or lumps and imparts to the garment a smooth and wrinkle-free appearance. At the same time the stays being under tension will reform rigid upstanding supports 10f greater dependability which :will prevent the garment from sagging and producing unsightly gaps along the upper edge, ofthegarment. 'Such upper edge, will be retained at a uniform and "preselected level so that throughout the entire time that the garment is worn it will preserve the initial attractive appearance towhich' it has been initially adjusted.

-Figure9 also-shows how the complete :detachment between the walls 21' and ;22, .permits vthe outer wall 2] to be free of the elastic tapel3l but to be permitted to follow naturally the contour of the bust-inthefitting action .of the garment to the bodyofthe wearer.

After the free ends. 3 l and 3 l of the tapes-have been adjusted and secured :in the back of the wearer, the back of ithe. garment .may be zipped into a closedposition over these'tapes', it being comparativelyeasyto perform this fastening operation dueto the fact that-theside seamsl33 and 34 and the entire front panel of'the garment including brassiere and midriif sections have been drawn tightly by the elastic tape around-to positions at the side of the body so that the side and rear panels I8 and ,l9 '0ffer no resistance to the zipping or closing of the garment at the back portion 20. 1

The vertical darts under the .bust'andalso the side bust darts provide .the necessary shape. The curving of the, boneson the .sidesof bust are for perfection of cupping and to :secure a firmer up lift. The elastic band which is sewn to the inner,

wall 22 all the way across the 'front of the garment and to the side seams33, :34 supports bust firmly to body for a perfect uplift; The elastic band 3l emerges from the side seams with its ends hanging loose for adjustability' and security,

the ends being closed preferably with the hook and eye. M39 and 4B are shown the seams which connect the topubrassiere part to the :midriif lining Ili of the garment.

The invention provides a completely built-in concealed brassiere for garments dispensing with the use of shoulder straps in-allisizes and having the effectto give the, wearer comfort, support and proper. uplift, at the same timeiperfecting the figure and avoidinggsagging or displacement of the garment particularly at the upper portion thereof.

The combination garment according to the present invention can .be worn without any other undergarment beneath it.

The invention finds great utility in accomm'm dating the brassiere to busts of various sizes in that the arrangement of parts enables the cups to be altered in size to correspond to varying bust sizes. The garment forms cupsizes, small, medium and large, depending on .the bust size of the wearer. The various cup sizes are brought about by the amount of. stretch giventhe elastic tape. When the tape is stretched to its maximum length the cup size is smallest and when the elastic tape is stretched to a minimum the largest cup size is formed.

By regulating the amount of stretch of the clastic tape any intermediate cup size can be formed.

The amount of curvature of the stays forms the various cup sizes and is accomplished by the action of the stretch on the lower ends of the stays and this is achieved by the elastic tape as it is connected to the lower ends of such stays. In the act of imparting stretch to the elastic tape, the ends of such tape are carried to the back of the wearer and in so doing the cups are applied to the bust. This application of the cups to the bust is brought about by the fact that the tape is consult, therefore, is to create the bowing to conform to the wearer's bust size.

While it has been heretofore stated that the elastic tape is connected to'the stays it will be understood that this connection may be either direct or indirect. In the drawings, showing only one embodiment of this invention, the connection is made by stitching theelastic tape to the easings in which the stays are housed. This causes the stays to move in accompaniment to the stretched conditions in the elastic tape.

It will be understood that the improved brassiere may be used in combination with the garment or separately as desired,

Although I have disclosed herein the best form of the invention known to me at this time, I reserve the right to all such modifications and changes as may come within the scope of the following claims.

What I claim is:

1. A: brassire comprising a flexible fabric wall having a lower edge and said wall having cups formed therein, fiat elastic stays secured toside portions of said cups and biased to a slight outwardly bowed condition to preform the brassiere into natural cups of shallow depth, and an elastic tape secured to the entire lower edge'of the fabric wall in stretched condition so as to be disposed beneath said cups and connected to thelower end portions of said stays to move such lower portions of the stays apart distances proportional to the amount of stretch given the tape, said tape also adapted to draw the brassiere includingthe cups and stays against the breasts with the cups expanding to receive the breasts of the wearer and the stays moving over the sides of the breasts to further bow the same to thus alter the sizesof the cups in conformity with the size of the bust.

2. A combination garment including a brassiere comprising a flexible fabric wall having "a lower edge and said wall having cups therein, resilient stays secured to side portions of said cups, and a resilient tape secured in stretched condition to the entire lower edge of said fabric wall'so as to be disposed below said cups and'conn'ected to the 10\V8I '6I1d portions of said stays whereby when stretched the tape will spread the lower portions of the stays in proportion to the-degree of stretching and when the tape is passed about the body of the wearer will force the cups including the stays over the bust to proportionately bow the stays and accordingly alter the size of the cups to accommodate varying sizes of breasts, an outer garment secured at its upper edge only to the upper portion of said brassiere fabric Wall whereby to freely and naturally accommodate itself to the conformation of the cups of the brassire, side and rear portions for said outer garment, and fastening means for the rear portions of said outer garment-adapted to be fastened independently of and subsequent to the tape.

3. A combination garment including a brassire comprising a flexible fabric wall having a lower edge and saidwall having cups therein, flat elastic stays secured to side portions of said cups and biased to a slight outwardly bowed condition to preform the brassiere into natural cups of shallow depth, an elastic tape secured to the entire lower edge of the fabric wall in stretched condition so as to be disposed beneath said cups and connected to the lower end portions of said stays to move such lower portions of the stays apart distances proportional to the amount of stretch given the tape, said tape, also adapted to draw the brassiere including the cups and stays against the breasts of the wearer with the cups expanding to receive the breasts and the stays moving over the sides of the breasts to further how the same to thus alter the sizes of the cups in conformity with the size of the bust, an outer garment secured along its upper edge only to the upper portion of the fabric wall of said. brassire whereby to accommodate itself naturally and freely to the conformation of said cups, side and rear portions for said outer garment, said tape having side and rear portions free of the side and rear portions of the outer gai ment to permit the tape to be passed about the body of the wearer in the application of the brassire before the outer garment is closed about the body, and fastening means 'on the rear portions of the outer garment for securing such outer garment about the body following the application of the elastic tape.

HYMAN ROBINS.

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